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\title{Wasatch Mountain Club \\
Climbing Skills \\
Index,  Assessment \& \\
Instructor's Guide}
\author{Paul Gettings \& Tony Calderone}
\date{\today}

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\chapter*{Introduction}

Rock climbing is potentially dangerous and fun. To minimize the danger,
and maximize the fun, teams need to have a minimum toolbox of skills
when venturing outdoors for rock climbing. Regardless of the expected
outing, outdoor climbing can quickly evolve due to weather, injury, etc.
This minimum toolbox is meant to be a safeguard to get the entire team
home safe in event of adverse conditions, and to handle other less
serious issues to keep the fun high. Leaving gear on a sandbagged route
is no fun, but coming home with all your gear (because of the toolbox)
makes a great story around the fire.

\section*{What is the Climbing Skills Index?}
Many of the skills in the toolbox take time to achieve, and many build
on other skills. The WMC Climbing Skill Index is a structured list of
skills for the outdoor climbing toolbox. The structure helps climbers
efficiently learn their skills and prevent critical holes in knowledge.

As some skills build on others, the index is broken into levels. The
idea is that level 1 skills are the first skills to learn, level 2 has
skills that build on level 1 and are used for level 3, etc. The index is
broken into 6 levels; going from level 1 to 6 will take multiple years
of outdoor climbing, and the structure helps keep climbers efficiently
progressing.

The levels of the index are based on a progression of skills, rather
than particular scenarios for outdoor climbing. This is because any
assumed scenario can quickly transform into something very different due
to weather, injury, daylight, etc. It is felt that trying to label
levels with common scenarios ("Sport Leading", "Multi-pitch Trad
Climbing") could lead to a false sense of security.

Many of these skills transfer to other sports with ropes.
Mountaineering, ice climbing, and canyoneering all benefit from parts of
this toolbox, with additions specific to those sports. We could equally
build an index around one of those sports and then expand to rock
climbing, but we have chosen to start with free rock climbing.

Also note that climbers do not need to learn these skills in this order.
The presented order is meant to be an efficient line of progress with
later skills building on earlier ones. However, due to a climber's
preference or history, they may have later skills before earlier ones;
mountaineers may learn the butterfly knot very early on, well before
they lead rock pitches. This is fine, and such a climber should get
their assessments in whatever skills they have, when they have them.
Instructors and assessors should happily sign off on correctly
demonstrated skills, regardless of skill or climber "level."

\subsection*{Are CSI Skills the "Best" Skills?}
While the CSI provides a map of a minimal comprehensive toolbox, it does
not include all the climbing skills of value.

{\bf The CSI does not provide the best skills for all scenarios}. The
objectively {\it best} skill for a particular task depends on the actual
conditions encountered when the skill is needed. What is presented in
the CSI is a toolbox with sufficient breadth and depth to allow handling
a wide, possibly complete, range of scenarios encountered when climbing
outdoors.

{\bf The skills of the CSI are not the only skills a climber should
know}; add to the CSI as desired!

{\bf The skills of the CSI are not the only skills allowed on WMC
outings}; use any safe skill you know to get the job done!

Climbers who reach CSI level 6 are encouraged to continue expanding
their toolboxes, and adding more skills and knowledge. Reaching CSI
Level 6 is not the end of education or learning - it is the start of
learning on your own \& teaching the rest of us!

\section*{Some Comments on Training}
Training to a particular CSI level is not required, and may be too
disjointed for easy learning. Many of these skills can be learned
individually, or as part of a scenario-based approach. For example, many
of the skills listed in CSI Level 2 apply to cleaning an anchor, and are
likely best learned as part of a workshop on cleaning anchors and
rappelling down. Similarly, climbers learning self-rescue strategies
will likely check off skills from CSI Levels 3-6 in one set of workshops.

When sufficient desire exists, the club should offer training in any of
these skills to help climbers progress from CSI Level 1 to 6. The goal
is to get every WMC member who wishes up to level 6, so we can all have
fun climbing outdoors in the mountains. So, in addition to the more
scenario-based training that has been done in the past, the club could
(and probably should) offer some training workshops focused around CSI
levels, and maybe around just a couple skills people are
lacking/interested in. A short workshop for just a couple skills could
be done as part of a climbing outing, or just before an ordinary
climbing event.

\subsection*{Check the New Before You Remove the Old}
Something to emphasize when climbing:
\begin{itemize}
\item {\bf Check the new system before you remove the current system.}
\end{itemize}

This applies from leaving the ground until returning to the ground. When
climbers leave the ground, they check the new system (harness, belay
setup, and rope) before removing the current system (standing on flat
ground). When getting on rappel, check the rappel system before removing
the tethers keeping the climber to the anchor. This continues throughout
climbing - checking for a belay before removing the current anchor to
climb the next pitch, connecting to an anchor before coming off belay,
etc. All trainers should continue to emphasize the need to check the new
system before removing the current system, as this is a principle that
runs through nearly every skill listed here. Certainly the principle
runs through all the scenarios for building anchors, placing protection,
cleaning anchors, rappelling off anchors, and all the other parts of
climbing and mountaineering.

\section*{What are Climbing Skills Assessments?}

Climbing Skill Assessments are personal, voluntary assessments of skills
in the Climbing Skill Index. When a climber passes a skill assessment in
the CSI, the assessor signs the climber's Log Book to permanently record
the accomplishment.


\subsection*{Purpose} 
The purpose of a Climbing Skill Assessment (CSA) is to identify if a
member can demonstrate a skill identified in the CSI. The CSA Test
Script is the primary tool used to conduct an assessment.

For each skill being assessed, the result will be a pass or did not
pass. A member may be assessed any number of times to pass a skill, but
should expect only one try per session, to keep the total assessment
time manageable in a session.

\subsection*{Scope}
A CSA is a voluntary, free service that is limited to WMC members.
Members who wished to be assessed should get a log book from the WMC
before their first assessment.

Assessments are not training, nor a list of "suggested", "superior", or
"best" skills. The best (or better) skill to use in any particular
scenario is dependent on many variables. The CSI, CSA test script,
instructor's guide, and assessment events are not designed to address
those variables or that decision-making process.  Training on that
decision- making process will be left to a qualified instructor in a
training environment. 


\subsection*{Are CSAs Required?}
No. No WMC member is required to take an assessment. Any member may
choose to take an assessment, whenever they are offered, for any skill
in the CSI. Any skill may be assessed at any time and in any order. No
specific WMC training is required before the assessment.

WMC members are encouraged to take assessments as they feel they can
pass the skills. A climber may be assessed on one or more skills at a
time, in any mix of levels.  Climbers are encouraged to get assessed on
all the skills they know first, and then add new skills at whatever
levels as they wish.

\subsection*{Displaying Your Assessed Level}
If a climber so chooses, they may display their assessed level with
stickers on their helmet. When a climber completes assessment in all
skills listed for a particular level, they are eligible to receive a
sticker for that level. The stickers are offered at cost (or below), and
are voluntary.

Once a WMC member receives a sticker, they may display the sticker on
their helmet.  This is an indication to other climbers that they have a
certain base set of skills (plus anything not in the CSI). It is most
helpful if those assessed at the higher levels (CSI Level 4+) display
their level, as less-skilled climbers can then ask for help when they
want it.

A member's log book is also a way of showing your assessed skills. A
member may, at their discretion, show their log book to other climbers
to show they know certain skills. Please don't lose your log book, as
there are no backup copies.

A member may keep all their assessments and levels private, if they so
choose. There is no requirement to be assessed, or to display the
results of those assessments. 

\section*{Definitions}
This document has some specific acronyms and terms that are defined
here. Note that some of these definitions are just for this document,
and do not represent the general use or common definition.

\subsection*{Climbing Skill Index (CSI)}
An ordered list of essential climbing skills. This list does not include
all climbing skills, and does not represent the best skills for all
situations. The skills across the entire index form a minimal,
comprehensive toolbox for a climber to safely lead an outdoor climb of
a group.

\subsection*{Climbing Skill Assessment (CSA)}
An assessment of personal climbing skills, but only of skills in the CSI.
Other skills in climbing or other fields are excluded.

\subsection*{CSA Administrator}
A person qualified to administer a CSA and sign off for the skill in a
CSA Log Book.

\subsection*{CSA Script}
The primary tool used by a CSA Administrator to determine if a member
has a CSI skill. The CSA Script specifies the test criteria for each
CSI skill.

\subsection*{CSA Log Book}
A book given to a WMC member who volunteers to participate in the CSA
program. This book contains a short form of the CSI, with spaces for CSA
Administrators to sign off that the skill has been demonstrated. This
book forms a personal permanent record of demonstrated skills in the
CSI.

\subsection*{Full-Body Harness}
Any combination of leg loops, waist belt, and chest harness elements
connected such that it pulls all three of these elements toward the
sternum when weighted. Single-piece full-body harnesses also exist with
minimal waist connections; tie in points are still at the sternum.

\subsection*{Sit Harness}
A combination of waist belt and leg loops, with leg loops connected to
the waist belt by a full strength connection.

\subsection*{Belay/Rappel Device (BRD)}
Any device that allows controlling the rope speed for belay and rappel.
For the assessments in this document, almost all skills require a 2-slot
device capable of holding and controlling 2 ropes simultaneously. This
excludes the use of single-rope devices, such a Petzl Grigri.

\section*{Updates \& Contributions}
This document is typeset by LaTeX 2e, from a source file currently
maintained by Paul Gettings and Tony Calderone. Tony provided the list
of skills and broke them into levels. Paul converted to a LaTeX file,
and added some of the additional notes.

Anyone may contribute to the guide, particularly for additional skills
and notes. Send your changes to the maintainers or the WMC Climbing
Director(s).

The date on the title page is the date of typesetting, and should be
date of the most recent revision.

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\chapter{CSI Level 1}
\section{Identify climbing harness parts}
For each part, ask the participant to name the part-
\subsection{Waist Belt}
This is the belt around the waist, normally with a buckle to be
doubled-back. Many current harness manufacturers use "speed" buckles
that stay doubled back, and are not fully unthreaded to remove the
harness. Others, particularly for mountaineering harnesses, have speed
buckles that are easy to thread and unthread. This allows putting on a
harness without stepping through any loops; useful when wearing crampons
or skis. The waist belt also has one of the hard points for tying in
ropes and slings.
\subsection{Leg Loop}
The leg loops go around each leg, are connected together with a strength
member, and provide half the redundancy of a sit harness.  Leg loops are
also what allow hanging in a sit harness for hours without losing
feeling the legs or suffocating. The center of the front of the leg loop
connector is normally the lower hard point of a typical sit harness.
\subsection{Front Leg Loop Riser}
This is also better called a bridge between the leg loops. Has a
hardpoint.
\subsection{Rear Leg Loop Riser}
These keep the leg loops from falling down to the knees, which causes
the harness to fold the climber in half when they sit down. Are often
elastic, and droppable for going to the bathroom without taking off the
harness.
\subsection{Belay Loop (if present)}
Most modern harnesses have a strong belay loop connecting the leg and
waist hard points. Some mountaineering or ultralight harnesses drop the
belay loop for weight savings.

\section{Select a climbing harness; who needs a full-body harness?}
\label{select_harness}
Ask the participant who needs to use a full-body harness.
\subsection{Anyone under 16 years old}
The soft bones and lack of hips on young climbers means they should use
a full-body harness setup.
\subsection{Anyone who is pregnant}
A full-body harness allows tying in above the waist, preventing pressure
on the abdomen.
\subsection{Anyone with a waist bigger than their hips}
Anyone where the harness waist belt can't be collapsed to prevent
dropping over the hips needs a full-body harness to prevent catastrophe
if they invert.

\section{Fit a climbing harness}
\label{fit_harness}
\subsection{Waist belt must not be able to pull over the iliac crest}
This is important. A climber can be inverted in a fall, and if the waist
belt can slide over the hips, the climber will fall out of the harness!
\subsection{All buckles must be secured in accordance with
manufacturer's instructions}
This normally means doubles back, but could also be speed buckles or
some other setup depending on the manufacturer.
\subsection{Leg loops must fit tight enough to prevent pinching}
Very loose leg loops can ride up in a fall or weighting the rope, and
pinch in the groin. Very uncomfortable.
\subsection{Front leg loop risers must be long enough to not deflect the
waist belt}
The waist belt needs to be straight, not pulled down at the front.
\subsection{Front leg loop risers must be short enough to prevent waist
belt from reaching rib cage}
If the waist belt can rise to the rib cage, the belt will inhibit
breathing.
\subsection{Rear leg loop risers must be tight enough to prevent leg
loops from reaching the knee}
If the leg loops drop to the knees, sitting in the harness will try to
fold the climber in half, and impede breathing.
\subsection{The waist belt, leg loops, risers, and belay loop must not
be twisted more than 90 degress}
Twisted loops will be uncomfortable, put extra stress on components, and
will affect belay performance.

\section{Tie into a climbing harness (rewoven figure 8)}
\label{tie_harness}
\subsection{Figure 8 knot is backed up with an overhand knot with 1"-4"
of tail beyond overhand knot}
The figure 8 is used instead of other knots because of the ease of
inspection. It is also very strong, and easy to tie around/through the
hard points of a harness.
\subsection{Strands must not be twisted}
All strands should be parallel on both sides of the knot. 5 pairs from
the harness to the free ends.
\subsection{Rope must be threaded in accordance with manufacturers
instructions}
Check the harness to see where the rope needs to be run. Most harnesses
have the rope run through 2 hard points (leg loop bridge, waist belt
front).

\section{Conduct a pre-climb safety check}
\subsection{Team must consist of 2 climbers}
We are starting here with just a 2-climber team. Additional climbers can
be incorporated once using 2 ropes or other uncommon setups. In any
case, all team members should inspect themselves and all other team
members.
\subsection{Belayer must use 1 rope and 1 BRD on their harness}
This assessment is for a 2-person team with a single rope. The BRD must
be on the belayer's harness.
\subsection{Both harnesses must be selected in accordance with
\S\ref{select_harness}}
Both climbers must have appropriate harnesses.
\subsection{Both harnesses must be fit in accordance with 
\S\ref{fit_harness}}
The fit of the harnesses on both climbers must be good, and both team
members check all harnesses.
\subsection{Both people must be tied to the rope in accordance with
\S\ref{tie_harness}}
There is never a penalty for tying into both ends of the rope. There are
cases where not being tied in can  result in dangerous scenarios. Thus,
we should encourage always tying into both ends.
\subsection{Belay carabiner must be locked in the fully closed position}
Closed locking carabiner must be locked closed. However the carabiner
locks, check that it is locked in the safety check.
\subsection{Rope must be properly threaded through the belay device}
Whatever on the belay device, it must be rigged correctly.
\subsection{Both people must have a common understanding of the descent
plan}
Before anyone leaves the ground, or belay station, the entire team needs
to know what the plan is once the climber reaches the next anchor. This
could be lowering, continuing, cleaning, etc.

\section{Belay a top-roped climber}
This skill is the general top-rope belay of a follower with a device on
the belayer's harness. The typical gym skill, although we are requiring
2-slot devices for other reasons.
\subsection{Belayer must use 1 rope and 1 BRD on their harness}
Single rope only for this skill. Double rope setups are coverged later.
\subsection{Belayer must maintain a secure position that enables them to
maintain control of the rope when violently pulled. This may require
anchoring themselves to the Earth}
Depending on the weight of climber vs. belayer, anchors may be required.
Do not depend on an Ohm device or similar. We are looking for the
belayer to be close to the wall, on good footing, with easy control of
the rope under violent falls.
\subsection{Belayer must maintain at least their thumb and forefinger in
a closed loop around the brake strand, from as soon as the climber says
{\it On Belay}, until the climber says {\it Off Belay}}
This is essentially not letting go of the brake strand. The ring with
thumb and forefinger is the minimum; other fingers may be added. With a
ring around the brake strand, the belayer cannot drop or lose the rope
while belaying. Do not let go of the brake until the belay is released.
\subsection{Belayer must not allow the climber to hit the ground}
No dropping climbers. Ever.

\section{Belay a lead climber}
\subsection{Belayer must use 1 rope and 1 BRD on their harness}
Similar to top-rope belay, the skill here is with a single rope and
device on the harness.
\subsection{Belayer must maintain a secure position that enables them to
maintain control of the rope when violently pulled. This may require
anchoring themselves to the Earth}
Same as top-rope belay, but more so. Lead falls generate much larger
forces, and thus the belayer is at greater risk of flying to the first
protection. Ground anchors are a good idea when the leader outweighs the
belayer.
\subsection{Belayer must maintain at least their thumb and forefinger in
a closed loop around the brake strand, from as soon as the climber says
{\it On Belay}, until the climber says {\it Off Belay}}
Same as the top-rope belay. Do not let go of the brake strand until the
belay is released.
\subsection{Belayer must consistently allow the climber to advance}
Unlike the top-rope belay, the lead belay must take care to have enough
slack the climber can advance, but not so much that the leader falls too
far.
\subsection{Belayer must not allow more rope our of the belay than what
allows the climber to advance}
Too much slack is very dangerous, as a lead fall could become long
enough for the climber to hit rocks or ground.

\section{Respond to commands}
This is checking on a minimal set of commands; more commands are
typically in use, and currently collected in a separate document.
\subsection{When climber says {\it On Belay}, the belayer immediately
employs a method to control the rope speed. Immediately after doing so,
the belayer responds with {\it Belay On}}
Do not respond until the rope is controlled. The now-belayed climber may
immediately trust their life to the belay when they hear {\it Belay
On}.

\subsection{When climber says {\it Climbing}, the belayer immediately
ensures the entire length of rope will move smoothly and consistently
through the belay. Immediately after doing so, they respond with {\it Climb
On}}

\subsection{When the climber says {\it Slack}, the belayer immediately feeds
rope out of the belay}
This is the basic command for getting more rope out of the belay. The
belayer should give an arm-pull of slack as quickly as possible. The
belayer then goes back to locking off the belay in case of a fall. If
the climber needs more slack, they repeat the command. This command
should not be used to indicate lowering down a pitch, as there is no way
for the belayer to know what sort of slack the climber is requesting. To
lower down the pitch, use {\it Lower}.
\subsection{When the climber says {\it Lower}, the belayer lowers the
climber to the ground or until the climber says to stop ({\it That's
Me})}
This is different from {\it Slack} in that the belayer is being asked to
slowly lower the climber, not give an armful of slack as fast as
possible. The lowering will continue until the climber requests a stop
with {\it That's Me} or until the climber is on the ground.
\subsection{When the climber says {\it That's Me}, the belayer immediately
stops moving the rope.}
{\it That's me} is the general stop command for any rope motion. We have
discovered that "Stop" does not carry well in the mountains.  The "a"
and "eee" sounds carry better. This command also comes from multi-pitch
routes, where the climber at the next belay is pulling up all the extra
rope; when there is no more rope, the bottom climber is telling the top
climber they are trying to pull them up the wall ("stop pulling, that
tension is me!").
\subsection{When the climber says {\it Up Rope}, the belayer immediately
pulls rope into the belay}
This differs from {\it Tension} in that {\it Up Rope} instructs the belayer to
remove some slack, but not try to hold the climber at their current
location. As soon as the rope comes tight, the belayer stops taking in
rope.
\subsection{If the climber says {\it Tension}, the belayer immediately takes
as much rope as possible into the belay}
{\it Tension} differs from {\it Up Rope} in that the belayer is trying to get ALL
the slack removed, and start removing the stretch.
\subsection{When the climber says {\it Off Belay}, the belayer immediately
ensures the rope will move without control. Immediately after doing so,
the belayer responds with {\it Belay Off}}
The belayer should not respond with {\it Belay Off} until the rope is
uncontrolled.  As soon as the belayer responds, the climber may start
pulling the rope as fast as desired; this makes it hard to release a
belay device. If the belayer needs the climber to stop pulling rope,
say {\it That's Me}.

\section[Safely lower a climber]{Safely lower a climber 50' (16 m) through a top anchor}
\label{lowering}
This is checking on the typical top-rope lower of the climber back to
the ground from the top anchor.
\subsection{Belayer must use 1 rope and 1 BRD on their harness}
This is an outgrowth of the top-rope belay.
\subsection{Belayer appropriately changes speed relative to terrain}
The belayer controls the lowering speed so that the climber does not
fall or drop badly at roofs. The belayer will stop feeding rope if the
climber unweights on a ledge until the climber reweights at the edge of
the ledge.
\subsection{Belayer appropriately changes speed relative to the climber
lowering}
Do not lower so fast the climbers can't keep up. The climber needs to be
comfortable and walking down the wall at their pace.

\section[Respect other climbers]{Demonstrate respect for other climbers at the crag}
This "skill" is about keeping the climbing areas neat and tidy,
preventing silly falls from tripping on gear, and not being annoying to
others out in the mountains.
\subsection{Gear is kept in or under pack while climbing}
Don't leave gear spread all over the staging area or base of the crag.
Keep gear corralled into or under your pack and away from the base of
the climbs.
\subsection{Gear is kept out of staging areas when climbing multi-pitch
routes}
When leaving for a multipitch route, make sure all the team's gear
remaining on the ground is out of the way of anyone else coming to climb
the crag. Collect gear to keep it from blowing around in the wind.
\subsection{Talking is minimal and quiet when others are leading nearby}
Leaders need to talk to their belayers; do not make it hard for a
belayer to hear their climber.

\chapter{CSI Level 2}

\section{Build a 2-bolt belay anchor}
\label{STEAMERS}
From Earth to power point, the system must be: {\bf S T E A ME R S}

\subsection{S - Strong}
The rock, protection, and other anchor components must individually be
strong. A strong anchor cannot be built from terrible components.
\subsection{T - Timely}
Assembling the anchor system should be efficient and quick. Speed is
less important than correctness, but excessive slowness increases
exposure to objective hazard.
\subsection{E - Equalized}
The load should be spread equally among all the protection in the
anchor. The load should be equalized in all reasonable directions of
pull in use. This includes the following climber and the leader for the
next pitch.
\subsection{A - Angle}
The angle between any 2 legs of the equalized anchor system must be less
than 90 degrees, and should have a goal of less than 45 degrees.
Minimizing the angle, given terrain and angle, is an important
requirement. Angles between legs should not exceed 90 degrees; each
(equalized) piece will take more than the full load at the power point!
\subsection{ME - Minimal Extension}
Minimize extension while maintaining equalization. Excessive extension
leads to shock loads on protection, which leads to cascade failure of
the entire anchor system. Since no extension removes equalization, some
extension and equalization is better.
\subsection{R - Redundant}
No single point of failure between the Earth and the power point.
Multiple independent strands at the power point. Any single failure will
not cause a failure of the entire anchor system.
\subsection{S - Simple}
The simplest anchor system that meets all the other requirements is
preferred over more complex options. Simple is easy to inspect. Simple
is fast to assemble. Simple takes less gear.
\subsection*{Examples}
Note that some currently popular anchor options do not meet these
requirements. Others do. Some examples-
\begin{itemize}
\item Cordelette with static BFK for power point - does not equalize;
your attempt at equalization when tying the knot is wrong. No extension,
but all the load will be on a single piece at a time.
\item Sliding X - with one sling, fails redundancy. With 2 slings, fails
minimal extension leading to large shock loads.
\item Sliding X with limiting knots - meets all requirements. Limiting
knots minimize extension and make each leg independent.
\item Quad anchor - meets all requirements. Doubled sling with limiting
knots, clip at least 2, no more than 3 in the power point.
\item Cordelette used as an "equalette" - meets all requirements, but
can be excessively long at a bolted belay station.
\item Girth Hitch Master Point - fails redundancy, equalization. Think
about the sling failing in the top of the knot.
\item Sling with static BFK for power point - does not equalize.
\end{itemize}

\section{Build and rappel from carabiner block}
This technique is applicable to both the cases where 2 ropes are being
joined, and one is too small for a rappel (e.g. 9.5 mm rap line, 5 mm
pull cord); and the case where a single rope is rigged through the
anchor, but the climber does not have a 2-strand rappel device. This is
common for someone rappelling off a pitch with a grigri or equivalent.
\subsection{Carabiner Block must consist of a clove hitch and a locking
carabiner}
The clove hitch locks the rope to the carabiner, and the carabiner is on
the far side of the anchor from the rappel line. This way, pulling on
the rappel line brings the carabiner against the anchor, which stops it.
The clove hitch is preferred in this application. Tying a bight leads to
the carabiner flopping about, increasing the chance of the entire rope
getting stuck on the pull.
\subsection{A locking carabiner joins a clove hitch on the pull strand
to the rappel strand}
By clipping the carabiner around the rappel line, the top of the setup
is a closed loop.  This prevents the uncommon, but serious, case where
unweighting or shifting of the carabiner while on rappel can allow the
carabiner to slip through a large anchor ring. This has happened.
\subsection{Rappel on one strand. Retrieve with other strand}
Obviously, the climber needs to rappel on the strand that is locked by
the carabiner block, and pull the other strand. Ideally, the climber
should track which strand to rappel and pull from the start, with no
false starts or wrong choices. It is up to the assessor how many wrong
choices lead to not passing the skill.

\section{Join ropes with 2 Double Fisherman's Bends}
This is the preferred knot for joining ropes when any doubt in another
method might be present. The double fisherman’s will work with wildly
different diameters and materials. It does not depend on friction, and
will not untie when rolled across the rock. For this reason, we start
everyone with the double fisherman's.  Also, this knot on one line is
perfect as the stopper knot for rappelling.
\subsection{Two Double Fishermen's Bends must be tied and interlaced
correctly}
When tightened, the knots should be straight, with a minimum of 2 wraps
on each side. All strands should be next to each other, with no gaps.
\subsection{Rope strands must not be twisted}

\section{Clean a 2-bolt anchor \& rappel}
The WMC preference is to sling out the rappel device, to allow the
backup to be attached to the belay loop on the harness. Slinging out the
rappel will also help prevent climbers from inverting on rappel, even
with a pack. When slinging out the rappel, the device must still be
reachable while descending. 
\subsection{Climber remains secured to protection from arrival at anchor
until on rappel}
From when the climber reaches the anchor, they must remain secured to
the fixed protection at all times with at least one locking carabiner on a tether
or sling, and preferably 2 separate connections. Once the climber has
tested the rappel system, they may remove the connections from
themselves to the fixed protection.
\subsection{Equipment is removed from a 2-bolt anchor with chain
hardware}
Nothing should be left except the fixed protection.
\subsection{Rope is properly threaded through two chains}
The rope should go through the bottom of the chains, without knots or
twists. The rope must not be over too thin an edge.
\subsection{Chains must not be twisted}
Twisted chains will trap a rope when trying to pull the rope down.
\subsection{Rappel with a BRD using 2 rope strands}
Both strands in the device, and control both strands so they do not
slide through the fixed protection.
\subsection{Foot position is appropriately wide while descending}
No falling sideways.
\subsection{Speed is safe while descending}
No dropping onto the ground.
\subsection{Body angle prevents foot slippage while descending}
The climber must keep their feet high enough for secure foot placements.
Slipping can lead to loss of control.
\subsection{Obstacles are passed without slipping or injury while descending}
No hitting the face on the roof.
\subsection{Locking friction hitch is correctly used to back up rappel} 
Either a VT Prussik above the rappel system, or autoblock below the
rappel device may be used. Suitable material for a friction hitch must
be used. The backup must be connected with a locking carabiner.


\section[Understand rope types]{Understand single, half, twin \& static ropes }
\subsection{Legitimate uses must be accurately explained}
\subsection{Elongation differences must be accurately explained}

\section{Join webbing with a Ring Bend}
This can be done with 2 different pieces of webbing, or one long piece
being tied into a loop.
\subsection{Ring Bend must be tied correctly} 
Each end of the webbing goes into the knot from each side. This is not
an overhand on a bight, but a rewoven overhand with tails on each side.
\subsection{Ring Bend must be well-dressed}
No twists or gaps in the knot. Tails are at least 2 inches long on each
side. Knot should be set with body weight or more.

\section{Explain leading and top-roping}
\subsection{Differences in risk must be accurately explained}
\subsection{Differences in the effect on the belayer and anchors must be accurately explained}
We are looking for recognition of the dangers to the belayer and anchor
from lead falls, and how the belayer must mitigate those risks each
pitch.

\section{Identify geological features}
Photos may be used.
%%% Insert a photo(s) with labels?
\subsection{Scree}
Small loose rocks, less then double-fist size.
\subsection{Talus}
Larger loose rocks, at least double-fist size.
\subsection{Intrusion}
Geologic definition - foreign rock injected into an existing rock
formation.
\subsection{Buttress}
Large independent rock formation; bounded by terrain features.
\subsection{Crack}
Open fracture in the rock face. Large enough for stuff to be inserted
into, but smaller than a chimney that admits the entire body.
\subsection{Seam}
Closed fracture. May be only a corner, or undercut with no space for
protection.
\subsection{Arete}
Outside corner on a buttress.
\subsection{Dihedral}
Inside corner on a buttress.
\subsection{Ledge}
Horizontal shelf with space on top of the shelf.
\subsection{Roof}
Horizontal shelf with an undercut; may be bottom of a ledge.
\subsection{Chimney}
Crack wide enough to admit the entire body for climbing.
\subsection{Summit} 
Top of a formation that is more equal in width and length.
\subsection{Ridge}
Elongated top of a formation.
\subsection{Spur}
A ridge that has one end on a larger formation/mountain, and the other
end in space.
\subsection{Draw}
A valley on the side of a mountain.
\subsection{Couloir}
A draw that terminates in a headwall.


\chapter{CSI Level 3}
\section[Identify 3 bolt types]{Identify 3 bolt types typically used in fixed protection}
The goal here is to recognize what sort of fixed protection is being
encountered on unfamiliar routes. Thus, the details given here are about
recognizing bolts once installed, not on the shelf.
\subsection{Compression bolts}
Button heads. No method of using a wrench; they are not tightened after
installation.
\subsection{Expansion bolts}
Studs with nuts or hex heads for tightening with a wrench after being
driven into the hole.
\subsection{Glue-in bolts}
Visible glue or a wire bent into a P-shape with 2 ends going into the
hole are the most common indications of a glue in. Generally don't have
separate hangers.

\section[Lead 80' sport route]{Lead 80' (25 m) of 5th class with bolts} 
This is essentially sport leading. The fixed protection is expected to
be bolts to a 2-bolt belay station. Any kind of draws can be used, and
the lead should include building a top-rope anchor at the end. The 80'
should be in one pitch. Anchor should meet the requirements in
\S\ref{STEAMERS}.
\subsection{Rope must be properly clipped into carabiners}
No back clipping. No Z clipping. Spine to the line.
\subsection{Runners must prevent rope drag}
Quickdraws may be used, but alpine draws should be used where needed to
prevent rope drag. Choosing a route with some wandering is preferable
for the assessment of this skill.
\subsection{Protection must prevent team injury}
No skipped bolts, and choose a route for the assessment that is not
dangerously run out.

\section{Join 2 ropes with Flemish Bend}
This is a rewoven Figure-8 with 2 different ropes. Rope diameters should
be within 1 mm of each other for a good hold in the knot. Ropes enter
from opposite sides. You may add an overhand to the free tails as
backups.
\subsection{Must be tied correctly}
All strands are flat, parallel, with no gaps. Tails are at least 6
inches before backup knots.
\subsection{Strands must not be twisted}

\section[Belay \& lower on a Munter]{Belay \& lower a climber with a Munter Hitch}
This must be from the top of a pitch, with the Munter carabiner directly
attached to the power point of a belay anchor. The point is to use a
Munter on a locking carabiner to replace the belay device normally used,
AND to show that the climber knows how to belay from the top directly
off the anchor with a single rope.

Choosing an HMS carabiner is a good idea.
\subsection{Munter hitch must be attached directly to anchor}
The Munter hitch carabiner must be in the power point or shelf, so it is
clipped to all components of a STEAMERS anchor in compliance with
\S\ref{STEAMERS}. The carabiner should be a locking HMS style, and must
be locked while belaying and lowering.
\subsection{Lowering speed must be appropriate to the terrain}
The belayer should keep up with the climber during ascent, and control
the speed when lowering.
\subsection{Speed must be appropriate to the skill of the person being
lowered}
The lowering must not be faster than the climber's comfort level.

\section{Tie a Prussik Hitch}
Start with a fixed, tight rope for the Prussik. Any suitable material
can be used for the Prussik - accessory cord, rope, or other rated
material (e.g. Hollowblock or VT Prussik). Do not use HMW PE for
friction hitches. Both hands may be used. When the climber hangs on the
Prussik, it must not move.
\subsection{Tied correctly in under 20 seconds}
The knot must start at the outside, with wraps moving to the center. The
wraps are next to each other, without crossing. The spine cord is tight
to the hitch. Any sewn section in the sling is out where the carabiner
clips, but does not prevent the loop from being straight.
\subsection{Hang from Prussik Hitch}
When the climber hangs from the Prussik, it must not move on the rope.

\section{Understand climbing shoe features}
We are looking for differences in edging, crack climbing, friction
climbing, and comfort.
\subsection{Must explain how camber, midsole \& toe profile affect
performance}
Edging vs friction climbing, crack vs face, etc.
\subsection{Must explain differences in fit and stiffness}
For example, slippers vs. trad shoes.
\subsection{Must explain differences in capabilities on various terrain}
This is particularly relevant for friction and crack climbs.

\section{Coil 200' (60 m) of rope}
As a general note, wrapping around an arm is an instant fail here. We
are looking for a butterfly coil of some sort, so it can be collected
into a backpack, or tied off to attach to a pack, and will drop nicely
when thrown into space off a cliff. Mountaineer's coils are not
appropriate here, as they will not fall nicely when thrown.
\subsection{Coils must be less than 6 feet long}
Coils longer than this will be too long for a pack or use as a backpack.
\subsection{Coil must be secure enough to be thrown without falling
apart}
When secured, the coil should stay together until released.
\subsection{Coil must be easily carried on back or backpack}
This could be 2 different styles of coiling - one that whips the tails
around the center of the coils for laying over the top of a pack, and
one that wraps the coils in half to be a backpack itself. The tails must
be long enough to allow wrapping around the coils and waist to tie the
rope to the climber. Use a square knot in the tails to secure the rope
to the climber.
\subsection{Coil pays out easily when unsecured and thrown}
This is where we effectively require butterfly coils. Other coiling
methods do not fall cleanly when thrown off a cliff.

\section{Identify standard climbing topo sketch symbols}
%%% Insert a figure with labeled examples
\subsection{Arete}
See label ??? in figure ????.
\subsection{Dihedral}
See label ??? in figure ????.
\subsection{Ledge}
See label ??? in figure ????.
\subsection{Roof}
See label ??? in figure ????.
\subsection{Chimney}
See label ??? in figure ????.

\section{Give a Safety Briefing}
This is going through the briefing document for a climbing activity.
Include the sections on approach difficulty and dangers if applicable.
\subsection{Address equipment requirements for 3rd class terrain on the
approach if applicable}
This is for when the approach will require light scrambling, with little
exposure.
\subsection{Address equipment requirements for 4th class terrain on the
approach if applicable}
This is when the approach will have exposed and significant scrambling.
\subsection{Address equipment requirements for 5th class terrain}
Some climbs have a short 5th-class section to reach the base of the
climb. If this is the case, bring up the sections of the safety brief
that apply.
\subsection{Address equipment to mitigate injury from possible rockfall
on the approach if applicable}
This means helmets, of course.
\subsection{Address respectful behavior toward other climbers that may
be encountered}
Gentle reminders to not scatter gear across the base of the crag.


\chapter{CSI Level 4}
\section[Build a trad anchor]{Build belay anchor without fixed protection}
From Earth to power point, system must follow {\bf S T E A ME R S}. See
\S\ref{STEAMERS} for
discussion of acronym and terms. This is like \S\ref{STEAMERS}, but with
traditional (temporary) protection. This will generally mean a 3-piece
equalized anchor instead of the 2-bolt station in \S\ref{STEAMERS}. The same
acronym and requirements apply, but now there is a lot more to the
strength of placements, and equalization becomes even more important.
Equalettes are an excellent option here, but by no means the only good
(much less acceptable) option.

\section[Lead an 80' trad route]{Lead 80' (25 m) of 5th class without fixed protection}
\label{trad_lead_pitch}
This should be a single pitch of trad climbing, and not direct aid. The
climber must place the protection and build an anchor without using any
fixed protection. Obviously, they can use a fixed rappel station to get
off the climb when done.
\subsection{Rope must be properly clipped into carabiners}
This means no Z clipping, no back clipping, and using the correct end of
quick draws or slings. See \S\ref{trad_placements} for more instructions
on the placements.
\subsection{Runners must prevent rope drag}
Use of any sort of draw or runner is permitted, so long as they will
hold a lead fall. However, the leader needs to choose slings that will
prevent rope drag on the pitch. They must also keep the sling choice in
mind for \S\ref{trad_placements}, below.
\subsection{Protection must prevents team injury}
\label{trad_placements}
Protection must be placed that will hold a lead fall at any point, with
minimal chance for injury of the leader. The slings should not extend
the fall to where the leader might get hurt by hitting a wall feature or
the ground. The placed protection must be sufficiently strong to hold a
lead fall, and sufficiently close together to prevent the leader from
hitting anything when falling. The protection must also prevent a
follower from taking an excessive fall or swing that could lead to
injury.
\section{Explain "pitching" belays}
We are looking to make sure the climber understands what happens on a
multi-pitch climb, including the transitions.
\subsection{Member explains switching roles between climbing and
belaying}
The training and assessment should include when and how to clean the
anchor, the required communication between climbers, and how to swap
leads or not.


\section{Tie a bowline around your waist}
This is in a single line, and included because of rescue scenarios where
someone without a harness is on high-angle terrain. Both hands may be
used.
\subsection{Strands are well-dressed}
The tail should emerge from the middle of the knot, and should be at
least 6 inches when tightened. No gaps in the knot; the knot should be
fully set.
\section{Escape the belay}
This will require an anchor for the load, and any number of techniques
to transfer the load to an anchor and then get out of the belay. When
completed, the load should be tied off to the anchor with a releasable
system, with a static backup to the anchor.
\subsection{Belay must be loaded}
Start with at least 50 lbs, and preferably 200 lbs on the belay line. Do
not put a climber at risk of serious harm during the assessment.
\subsection{Belay must begin on harness}
The belay must be in a BRD, and on the harness. Then end with the
belayer completely out of the system, as is the BRD.
\subsection{Member must maintain control of the load}
It is an automatic fail to drop the load (climber) at any point.
Escaping can be done without unweighting and without dropping the load,
so that is the standard.
\section{Rappel without a harness}
\subsection{Any safe, recognized, legitimate method may be employed}
Examples include the Dulfersitz, the South African Style (????).
\section{Identify pitons}
The goal here is for climbers to be able to identify pitons in the
field. This is mostly for inspecting protection on routes and at
anchors.
\subsection{Point to each item and ask, "What is this?"}
\subsubsection{Blade Piton}
These are both thin and thick (knifeblade vs. Lost Arrow). Also note
these may include both steel and iron. Steel pitons are reusable. Iron
pitons are not - place once and leave until they rust into nothing.
\subsubsection{Angle Piton}
These are larger, and more often reusable steel. They are often left as
alpine anchors in larger cracks.

\section[Identify runners]{Identify \& understand runner materials}
HMW PE goes by a number of trade names: Spectra, Dyneema, etc. All are
variations of an Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly-Ethylene; very strong,
slick, and low melting point. For the last 2 reasons, PE is a bad choice
for friction hitches. It is also very difficult to tie into a loop that
will hold; HMW PE slings are bar-tacked to make a loop.  PE has almost
no stretch, which makes it dangerous to fall on. Nylon stretches some,
making it safer for a tether that might take a fall.  Nylon has a much
higher melting point and is much less slick, so it is suitable for
friction hitches and tied webbing loops. Nylon absorbs water, and
weakens when wet.
\subsection{Ask member to explain the difference between these two
runners}
\subsubsection{Member identifies nylon runner}
This should be a sewn runner, of any common length. Choose a 3/4"
runner, if possible instead of a 1" runner.
\subsubsection{Member identifies Dyneema or Spectra runner}
This should be a sewn runner, of any common length. Preferably, choose
larger HMW PE widths to better match the nylon sling.
\subsubsection{Member demonstrates they know nylon has greater
elongation and water absorption}
PE does not absorb water. Nylon does.  PE does not stretch (VERY high
peak force in a fall). Nylon stretches a few percent (much lower peak
force in a fall).

\section{Identify features on a USGS topo}
Any map with the features will work, but depending on the difficulty
desired, a local map could be used instead of a random map from
somewhere in the world.
%%% Insert a figure with examples.
\subsection{Summit}
Closed contour loops at a high point.
\subsection{Ridge}
Long, parallel contour lines in a high region.
\subsection{Spur}
Long contour lines closed on one end.
\subsection{Draw}
Notch in the contour lines.

\chapter{CSI Level 5}
\section[Lead a 400' trad route]{Lead a 400' (122 m) route without fixed protection}
This should be a set of trad pitches. No bolts (even for anchors) or
direct aid. No injuries. The climber may swap leads, but the pitches
following do not count towards the 400' (130 m).  Leads meet the
criteria for \S\ref{trad_lead_pitch}; no credit for soloing.
\subsection{Route must be at least 400' (122 m) long} 
The route can be longer, and the climber can swap leads. This could
require an 800' route of 5th class terrain.
\subsection{Route may not have fixed protection} 
The ascent route must not have fixed protection. The descent may use
fixed protection.
\subsection{Protection must prevent team injury}
See \S\ref{trad_lead_pitch} for details of this requirement.
\subsection{Direct aid may not be used}
Free climbing, with a rope and protection, only. Direct aid is covered
in another entry.

\section{Climb with direct aid}
This is a requirement for some experience in direct aid. The climber
should use full aid gear, including ladders and daisy chains. The
climber may use fixed anchors to retreat after the lead.
\subsection{Direct aid section must be at least 25' (8 m) long} 
Less than this length is too short for good experience.
\subsection{Aid must be employed on lead}
Following aid is just jugging a line, so the climb needs to be on lead.
\subsection{Protection must prevent team injury}
Protection must hold for the aid climbing, and protect the follower.

\section{Tie a Munter Mule knot}
Using a rope or sling, tie a Munter Mule around a carabiner. Fix the
other end of the sling first. Munter Mule must not slip when loaded.
\subsection{Properly tie within 20 seconds}
The Munter hitch should be easily visible on the carabiner. Above that,
at the Munter hitch, should be the slip knot (Mule). Above the Mule
should be an overhand to lock the Mule. All should be directly on top of
each other; no slack to creep.

\section{Tie a Butterfly knot}
Use a rope, and tie in the middle. Knot must be nicely dressed when
completed for inspection. Loop must be at least big enough for a
carabiner to clip.
\subsection{Properly tie within 20 seconds}
The loop is large enough for a carabiner to clip, and the wraps on the
sides are symmetric.

\section[Belay with 2 ropes]{Belay with two twin or double ropes}
Using a belay device on your harness, belay a climber through a top
anchor using twin or half ropes. The belay must be controlled at all
times. Clearly, a device for two ropes must be used.
\subsection{Belay must be done from above climber}
The anchor point must be above the climber; this is to be a top-rope
belay.
\subsection{Belayer must keep ropes separately stacked for the entire
rope length}
This is to keep the ropes clear for feeding back out.

\section{Haul a bag with a Z-pulley}
We are looking to make sure the climber knows how to build a simple Z
pulley with the rope, a Prussik, carabiners, and a progress capture
setup. If using an auto-blocking belay device, the belay device is the
progress capture setup. It is a fail to just haul the bag up by raw arm
strength.
\subsection{Use 1 rope, 1 auto-blocking BRD, 1 prussik, \& 3 carabiners}
Progress capture should be using an auto-blocking belay device. The
prussik and carabiners form the rest of the Z-pulley rigging. Use the
rope instead of a sling, since the rope is loose.
\subsection{Bag must weigh at least 50 pounds}
Bag should be free-hanging, so it is not snagged on the rock when
hauling it up.

\section{Tandem rappel}
The goal here is for a tandem rappel; two people on one rappel system.
The preferred setup is to sling out the rappel device from the
controlling climber, and attach the second climber to the slung-out
device. Additional backup connections are made from the second climber
to the controlling climber, in case the rappel sling fails. The second
climber should be below the controlling climber, but close enough that
the controlling climber can help the second climber around obstacles. A
rappel backup is mandatory. This skill is for getting a climber down
who, for whatever reason, cannot rappel themselves.
\subsection{A second person must be directly attached to member}
There must be more than one connection between the climbers. No single
points of failure except the rappel device, locking carabiner, and rope.

\section{Install \& remove pitons}
This can be done anywhere a suitable crack is available; it probably
should {\bf not} be on a climbing route. Removal must be done with a hammer
and funkness device, not by destroying the rock. Use steel pitons, not
iron.
\subsection{Install angle piton}
\subsection{Install blade piton}
\subsection{Remove angle piton}
\subsection{Remove blade piton}

\section[Identify 5 climbers]{Demonstrate community awareness by identifying 5 climbers'
accomplishments.}
There is no real wrong answer here. We are looking for the climber to
find out about some local or national climbers, and what they have done
of note. Note that there is no requirement for what the climbing
accomplishments are, or how famous the climber’s need to be.


\chapter{CSI Level 6}
\section[Climb a fixed rope]{Climb a fixed rope with friction hitches}
Any friction hitches may be used, so long they can lock onto the rope to
hold the climber when weighted. The rope must be climbed with the
friction hitches, not the rock with hitches to capture progress. The
rope does not have to be free-hanging, but a free-hanging rope is ideal
for this skill.
\subsection{Must climb 50 feet}
At least 50 feet (15 m) of rope must be ascended by friction hitches.
Any method to descend is allowed.

\section[Bowline on a bight]{Tie into the middle of a rope with a bowline on a bight}
This is for tying into the middle of a climbing rope for lead climbing.
\subsection{Must be properly dressed}
Knot must have free end of the bight come through the center of the
knot. All strands must be parallel, with no gaps in the knot. The free
end of the bight must be clipped to the belay loop with a locking
carabiner.

\section[One-handed Munter]{Tie a Munter Hitch with one hand}
Use a rope and a carabiner attached to the wall. For extra points, also
tie a clove hitch with one hand.
\subsection{Must tie in less than 20 seconds}
When completed, must be a clean Munter hitch.

\section[Short-pitch belay]{Short-Pitch belay on 4th Class terrain}
This is a set of techniques for helping people and climbers through a
short exposed or tough section on otherwise easy terrain. The leader
uses a hip belay (or equivalent) with a minimal, perhaps terrain,
anchor. The pitch will be 10-30 feet (3-10 m) maximum length.
\subsection{Employ body belay}
Use a hip belay, with carabiner lock if desired. The emphasis is on
speed, not strength.

\section[Short-rope belay]{Short-Rope belay on 4th Class terrain}
This is a set of techniques for moving on 4th class terrain with some
protection for the follower in case of losing their balance.
\subsection{Employ carry coils techniques}
The leader carries coils to keep the rope short, and allow them to pull
a falling follower back into balance.

\section[Belay 2 followers]{Belay 2 followers simultaneously on 5th class terrain}
\subsection{Belayer must use autoblocking BRD}
The belay device used must automatically lock if a follower falls. Each
rope can be a single rope, twin rope, or double rope.
\subsection{Belay must be done from above climber}
The belay should be done directly off the anchor.
\subsection{Belayer must keep ropes separately stacked for the entire
rope length}
The climb should be at least 80 feet (25 m) long.

\section[Power drill a bolt]{Install a bolt with a power drill}
This does not need to be on a route. Either on a route being developed,
with permission, or in a boulder in a yard. The skills are about how
bolts work in the real world, and what it takes to place a bolt in a
cliff.
\subsection{Bolt must be installed correctly}
If installing an expansion bolt, the hanger should be tight and the
nut/head tight to the rock. Glue-in bolts should have the correct glue
installed in the correct conditions. Compression bolts are not allowed
for this skill.

\section[Hand drill a bolt]{Install bolt with a hand drill}
This does not need to be on a route. Either on a route being developed,
with permission, or in a boulder in a yard. The skills are about how
bolts work in the real world, and what it takes to place a bolt in a
cliff. Hand drilling is something everyone should do once to see how
slow it is. This skill can also be a last resort for escaping keeper
potholes.
\subsection{Bolt must be installed correctly}
If installing an expansion bolt, the hanger should be tight and the
nut/head tight to the rock. Glue-in bolts should have the correct glue
installed in the correct conditions. Compression bolts are not allowed
for this skill.

\section{Sketch a climbing topo}
This should be a route with which the climber is familiar. This is not
for a new route, or one in development. More than one attempt may be
made, if time allows.
\subsection{Must use standard symbols}
The topo should also be roughly to scale.

\section[Hip belay \& lower]{Belay \& lower a climber with a body belay}
This is most likely a hip belay with a carabiner to control the incoming
rope so the belay cannot unravel. The climber should not be dropped, and
the lowering must be in accordance with \S\ref{lowering}.
\subsection{Belayer may not use a friction device}
This is about belaying and lowering WITHOUT a device.
\subsection{Belayer may use a climbing harness}
The belayer should use a harness so they can use the carabiner to keep
the belayed strand controlled at the front of the harness.
\subsection{Belayer may use 1 carabiner}
This should be encouraged. Use a carabiner to clip the belayed strand to
the belay loop. This keeps the belay from unraveling.

\section[Identify 5 route developers]{Demonstrate community awareness through identifying 5 local
route developers by name}
There is no real wrong answer here. The member needs to look up routes
to find the names of 5 different route developers. They do not need to
be famous.

%%% Additional instruction content starts here

\chapter[Additonal Skills]{Additional Skills, not in the Index}

This chapter is for additional skills worth teaching, and notes on how
to teach them. They are not part of the index or assessment, but of
value to a climber's toolbox.

Feel free to submit ideas for new content to the document authors, WMC
climbing director(s), or anyone who can get the suggestion to one of
those people.

\section*{Additional Knots \& Hitches}
\subsection*{Friction Hitches}
\begin{itemize}
\item Kleimheist
\item Bachmann
\item Autoblock
\end{itemize}

\subsection*{Knots}
\begin{itemize}
\item Dog-Eared 8
\item Slip Knot
\item ????
\end{itemize}

\section*{Additional Hauling Skills}
\subsection*{5-to-1 \& 10-to-1 Z Pulley Setups}
Notes about high advantage setups. Multiple equalized anchors. Forces
approaching breaking strength of carabiners, ropes, etc.

\section*{Additional Rappel Skills}
\subsection*{Rescue Spider}
I'd really love to have a description and diagrams for this; seems to be
hard to find.  Will have to bug Mark about it.


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\clearpage

\end{document}